How to Make a Custom Cleansing Balm at home

Learn to make a customizable cleansing balm that’s perfect for dry, sensitive, or oily skin, using easy-to-find oils and waxes.

How to Make a Custom Cleansing Balm at home
Photo by Brittney Weng / Unsplash
How to Make Your Own Cleansing Balm: Easy, Affordable, and Tailored to Your Skin

Cleansing balms are a game-changer for anyone who loves effective skincare without the fuss. They melt away makeup and dirt while leaving your skin soft and clean. Here's a simple, beginner-friendly recipe for a waterless cleansing balm that you can tweak to suit your skin type.

No fancy ingredients here, just affordable, effective options. — This recipe makes 100g. You can adjust based on how much you want to make: 1. Mango Butter: 40g (40%) – Softens and hydrates. Substitute: Shea butter for more richness.

Shop Mango Butter

Shop Shea Butter

2. Sunflower Oil: 35g (35%) – Light, budget-friendly, and non-comedogenic. Substitute: Grapeseed, safflower, or avocado oil.

Shop sunflower oil

3. Candelilla Wax: 10g (10%) – Adds firmness and gives the balm structure. Substitute: Beeswax (use slightly less as it’s firmer). 4. Polysorbate 80 or EmulsifyingWax: 10g (10%) –

Helps the balm rinse off cleanly with water. Substitute: Use other emulsifying waxes; this is essential for emulsification.

Vari BTMS

5. Vitamin E: 5g (5%) – Antioxidant to keep your oils fresh.

6. Preservative: 1g (1%) – Ensures your balm stays safe. Use: Oil-soluble preservatives like Optiphen or Phenonip. — How to Make It

1. Melt the Base: Combine the mango butter and candelilla wax in a heatproof bowl. Place it over a double boiler and heat gently to 70°C–75°C (158°F–167°F) until melted. 2. Mix in Oils and Emulsifier:

Add your sunflower oil and Polysorbate 80 (or Olivem 900) to the melted mixture. Stir well to combine while keeping it at the same temperature.

3. Cool Down Phase: Let the mixture cool to below 40°C (104°F). Then add Vitamin E, your preservative, and any optional essential oils. Stir gently.

4. Set and Store: Pour your balm into a clean, airtight container. Let it cool and set at room temperature. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. —

Customizing Your Balm You can easily tweak this recipe for different skin types:

Dry Skin: Add more butter (up to 50%) for richness. Use avocado or sweet almond oil.

Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Go for lightweight oils like grapeseed or safflower. Add tea tree essential oil (0.5%) for antibacterial properties. Sensitive Skin: Skip essential oils or use calming options like chamomile or lavender. Swap mango butter for shea butter.

Fast-Absorbing Formula: Reduce butter to 30% and use grapeseed or sunflower oil.

For Extra Nourishment: Add squalane or marula oil (5–10%) for extra hydration. —

Why Use an Emulsifier?

Without an emulsifier like Polysorbate 80, the balm won’t rinse off properly and may leave your skin feeling greasy. It’s a small addition that makes a big difference in how your balm performs. — While this balm doesn’t contain water, it’s still exposed to moisture when you use it. Here’s how to keep it safe and fresh: Vitamin E: Slows oxidation of oils but isn’t a preservative. Preservative: Add 0.5–1% Optiphen or Phenonip to protect against bacteria and mold. Storage: Use a clean spoon or spatula to scoop out the balm and store it in a cool, dark place. —

How to Use Your Cleansing Balm

1. Scoop out a small amount and warm it in your hands. 2. Massage onto dry skin to dissolve makeup, dirt, and oil. 3. Add a little water to emulsify (it will turn milky), then rinse off. 4. Follow with your usual cleanser if you’re double cleansing.

Crafting your own cleansing balm at home can be simple, affordable, and tailored to your skin type. Here’s everything you need to get started, including a full list of tools, ingredients, and helpful tips for creating a skin-friendly product that rinses clean.
Ingredient Substitutes for Cleansing Balm If you don't have some of the ingredients, here are simple swaps: Kokum Butter → Swap with shea butter, cocoa butter, or mango butter. Olive Oil → Use jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, or sunflower oil. Emulsifying Wax → Replace with Polawax, Olivem 1000, or BTMS-50. Stearic Acid → Use cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or beeswax for a similar thickening effect. Vitamin E → Replace with rosemary extract as an antioxidant. These swaps ensure flexibility while keeping the balm effective!

To achieve professional-quality results, you'll need the following:

1. Lab Hot Plate or Electric Stove – For controlled heating.

2. Double Boiler or Pyrex Heatproof Bowl – To melt ingredients gently.

3. Digital Scale (0.0g precision) – Accurate down to 0.1g for precise measurements.

4. Thermometer – To monitor temperatures (essential for adding cool-down ingredients).

5. Heat-Resistant Measuring Cups – For safe handling of hot mixtures.

6. Silicone Spatulas & glass rods – For stirring and scraping.

7. Electric Mixer1 or Whisk – To mix ingredients thoroughly. 8. Amber or Glass Jars – For storage and UV protection. 9. Pipettes or Droppers – To measure small amounts accurately. 10. Label makers & Markers – For noting the product name and date.